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Uncommon Castles

Many tourists include in their trip to Finland a visit to one or more of the major castles, such as Turku Castle or Savonlinna.  And while I highly recommend including both of those sites in anyone’s visit to Suomi, I personally have enjoyed seeing some of the lesser known, but still magically beautiful fortresses –  especially now that the green of early summer has returned.

Just recently, I had the opportunity to explore two such places: Häme Castle (Hämeenlinna) and Raseborg Castle (Raaseporin Linna).

Häme Castle

Like so many fortresses, Häme Castle was constructed and reconstructed over centuries, but it was first built around 1320.  Located in the province of Sibelius’ birthplace, Hämeenlinna went through major iterations, including a transformation into a prison in the 1800s.  Finally in 1988, the castle was transformed into the museum that it is today.

Häme Castle

Looking out from Häme Castle

Raseborg Castle

Like Häme Castle, Raseborg first rose from the earth in the 1300s – around 1380.  Its original purpose was to defend Sweden against the Hanseatic League that had risen to power in Tallinn, just across the Gulf of Finland.  Then, sometime in the 1500s, the castle was abandoned and today it too serves only as a museum and a scenic reminder of the centuries of fascinating history that have preceded modern Finland.

Raasenporin Linna

Raasenporin Linna

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Enjoying Two Finnish Treasures at One Time

One of the greatest challenges of this job is carving out the time to accomplish everything I want to here in Finland.  So I was very lucky to be able to visit Aimo Nurminen and the hives of Finnish Black Bees that he has worked so long to preserve and the gardens of Kultaranta, the President’s summer residence, all on the same day.

BEES

By now it is old news that my wife and I have established a hive of bees here at the American Embassy in Kavopuisto.  This hive will yield us both honey and wax for candle-making.  But like most bee keepers, ours is a colony of Italian bees – bees that produce a significant quantity of honey, but which are challenged to survive the cold Finnish winter.  And that is where the Finnish “Black Bee”, Apis mellifera mellifera, enters our story. (Just to be accurate, although called the “Black” bee, this sturdy sub-species is really a rich dark brown in color.) As you will better understand as you read on, this wonderful creature has a lot in common with Finns and Finland.

Black Bees "dripping" off their honeycomb

The Black Bee, although not native to Finland, was introduced here in the early 1800s as the original honey bee stock. Although less generous in its honey production, the Black Bee has significant winter hardiness; has excellent flight strength (even in cold weather); has a strong drive to collect pollen; and has good longevity of queens and worker bees. Moreover, in its pure form, the bees tend to be very gentle.

Of course, it is only natural that bee keepers would seek to maximize their honey production.  So over the years, the Black Bee was hybridized with other sub-species of bees. The resulting strains included the Buckfast bee, which for many years became the dominant form throughout Europe. An interesting side note is that during World War II, Germany concluded that the Buckfast bee was not as prolific a producer of honey as were other varieties.  So an order went out from the Nazis to destroy all Buckfast hives (and of course any Black Bee hives) in areas under German control.  The Black Bee population, already diminished by hybridization, almost fell into extinction. But, much like Finland itself, the Black Bee survived in the face of what would have seemed to be insurmountable odds.

Today, the existence of non-hybridized Black Bees in Finland rests in the hands of a few dedicated Finnish bee keepers – and in particular, Aimo Nurminen who lives in Rymättylä – a small town of about 2,000 people – in the region of Turku.

Aimo maintains several pure Black Bee hives at his home and more importantly, maintains pure Black Bee colonies on a small island off the coast (since the bees will not fly the distance over water back to the mainland of Finland, the Black Bee hives there cannot hybridize with other species of bees).

Aimo and his wife, Raija, graciously had my wife and I, together with members of the Finnish Beekeepers Association, over for a delicious lunch and then of course down to Aimo’s “laboratory” where he breeds Black Bee queens.  From there we wandered out into Raija’s beautiful gardens and to the area where Aimo keeps his hives.  There they were, just as pretty as could be and we spent the better part of the next hour as Aimo opened hives to show just how gentle and yet robust these bees are. Simply amazing.

But the day had more in store, as Aimo is the beekeeper on the grounds of the President’s summer residence, Kultaranta.

KULTARANTA

Today Kultaranta (“Golden Beach”) serves as the summer residence of the President of Finland. Built for the Finnish entrepreneur and philanthropist Alfred Kordelin, the great granite manor house was designed by the famous Finnish architect Lars Sonck (among his many works are the Tampere Cathedral and the Kallio church here in Helsinki).

Kultaranta - the Golden Beach

And while the home itself is magnificent, it was the 560,000 square meters of gardens surrounding the residence that really brought me there. Hectare after hectare of flowers and fruit trees, and over 1,000 square meters of greenhouses!

Much of the beauty of the gardens and the bounty of the greenhouses are dependent upon the work of the hives, including Black Bees, that are maintained there by Aimo. So after touring the gardens and the exteriors of the buildings, we headed over to the bee hives.

Handling a "frame" of Black Bees with Aimo Nurminen

As you can see from the photo, we were handling the hive without smoke or safety clothing.  Now I am not suggesting how anyone else should work with bees, but Aimo generally avoids using smoke when handling the hives.  Rather he relies on a fine mist of water, the gentleness of the bees and of course, his decades of experience.

A bee motif carved in grantite on the side of the Manor at Kultaranta

So next time you visit Kultaranta (the gardens are open to the public one day per week), remember that the natural bounty and beauty of its gardens are tended not just by man, but by the humble, resilient and miraculous Finnish Black Bee.

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Blue Energy

Usually when people think of Paris in April it is because that city is turning green with spring growth.  Well, I was just in Paris and it was both about green and growth, but in a completely different way.  No, this was an unprecedented gathering hosted by the U.S. Ambassador to France, my friend Charles Rifkin, to accelerate the implementation of  energy efficiency technology and sustainability practices in U.S. Embassies.

This two day event brought together business leaders, representatives from Washington D.C., senior management from over 20 U.S. Embassies and 9 U.S. Ambassadors.  There were some serious power lunches there to help lay out a series of next steps – implementations with real metrics.

(l to R) United States Ambassadors Speckhard, Solomont, King, Rifkin, Oreck, Stroum, Beyer, Eacho and Barzun

As many of you may know, last October, President Obama issued an Executive Order mandating that the Federal government (the largest consumer of energy in the U.S.) quickly put into effect dramatic and measurable increases in energy efficiency. (For the text of that executive order, please click on this link: Presidential EO )  And just a few weeks ago President Obama also created a new National Export Initiative for U.S. companies. This kind of leadership has created a perfect opportunity to really charge ahead with the building blocks of the next economic and industrial revolution – what I have long called “Blue Energy”.

What is Blue Energy? It is the term that I use to describe the full constellation of business opportunities that will underlie the global move to a far less energy intensive, far less hydrocarbon dependant and far more sustainable global future.  From smart grids to smart light bulbs, from bio-energy to batteries and everything else under the sun (pun intended), the economics and businesses of the last century will give way to the businesses of the 21st century.  As one of the business participants at this energy conference stated, “A business that fails to embrace energy efficiency and green business practices today will find itself in the same circumstances as a business that failed to embrace the internet in 1995.”

Much of the hard work that was invested in putting this conference together was led by the U.S. Commercial Service, which is the U.S. Department of Commerce’s International Trade Administration.  Alright, that is a mouthful, but here is what counts: the leadership of the International Trade Administration is working incredibly long and hard hours to advance the agenda of new energy and energy efficiency.  From Francisco Sanchez (the Under Secretary of Commerce for International Trade, U.S. Department of Commerce) with whom I met at length back in Washington this past March, to Suresh Kumar (the Assistant Secretary for Trade Promotion and Director General of the U.S. & Foreign Commercial Service, U.S. Department of Commerce) with whom I spent a great deal of time at the Paris conference, I can assure you that these are business people with a bold vision of a Blue Energy future.

There is something else you need to be aware of. Despite the prior administration’s lack of focus on new energy technologies, American entrepreneurs and many of America’s corporate giants have been actively toiling away on new energy opportunities.  Today, America has many of the world’s very best energy research projects and laboratories from which have come some of the best products and technologies in the fields of energy efficiency and alternative energy.

So how does this all relate back to Finland?  Well,  it is valuable to know that many American businesses have already partnered with Finnish firms to create new products and business opportunities and several new cooperative ventures are under negotiation.

As far as this all relates to Embassy Helsinki, I hope soon to announce a major undertaking at our Embassy that could be a pilot for similar projects around Europe and beyond.

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Back to the earth

Since the time I was a young boy growing up just a block away from the American Museum of Natural History in New York City I have been mesmerized by the beauty and the wonder of the world of minerals.  Across the vastness of the universe, no matter what galaxy we gaze into, they are all formed from the same set of elements.  The periodic table contains to date a mere 118 elements .  And of these building blocks of the galaxies, only 90 are naturally occurring.  (A “synthetic” element is one which can be created artificially using a particle accelerator, but once created almost instantly ceases to exist as its atomic configuration is not stable.)

Out of these 90 naturally occurring elements, some, under the right conditions of time, pressure and surrounding conditions, will form themselves into crystals of magnificent shape, color or complexity. These wondrous things, beyond their physical beauty, provide us with a small glimpse at an order that reaches across the universe.

Now there are rocks and then there are minerals.  (I am striving not to have this journal entry descend into a science lecture, so you will have to research the distinction on your own.)  My primary interest is that of minerals and mineralogy.   Finland contains only limited mineral deposits.  The most significant of those resources have been found in the Outokumpu area in eastern Finland. Since the start of commercial mining there around 1910, it has yielded commercially exploitable deposits of copper, iron, sulfur, zinc, cobalt, nickel, gold, and silver. And where there is commercial mining, there will often be found beautiful crystal specimens.

Over the years, Finland has been the source of some very fine and rare mineral specimens.  Perhaps the best known example is a wonderful green garnet known as “Uvarovite” – it gets its green from chromium.

A group of Uvarovite Crystals

Uvarovite and many other terrific minerals can be found on display at several museums across Finland, but the one I most recently visited was the Mineral Cabinet located at Snellmaninkatu 3, 00170 Helsinki.  This is one of the collections of The Finnish Museum of Natural History (which is an independent research institution functioning under the University of Helsinki).

The Director of the Mineral Museum is Dr. Arto Luttinen.  I first met Arto several months ago when I went to visit the Natural History Museum here in Helsinki (Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu 13).  At that time Arto recommended I come to see the Mineral Cabinet, but it took a while before my schedule allowed the time.  I regret that I waited as long as I did – not just because Arto gave me a wonderful personal tour of the collection, but because both the collection and the building in which it is housed are a true delight.

Do not miss the lovely examples of Spectrolite – a rare and stunning form of Feldspar which glows with  a magical play of iridescent blues.

Spectrolite revealing its magic

First identified by Finnish Aarne Laitakari, the actual source remained a mystery until Aarne’s son Pekka discovered the great Spectrolite deposits at Ylämaa in southeastern Finland while building the Salpa Line fortifications there in 1940. (For those who love history, the story of the Suomen Salpa – the 1200 kilometer line bunker line built between the Winter War and the continuation War – is in itself a fascinating story.)

The Museum also has on display what is perhaps one of the world’s finest examples of a Pallasite – a meteor that contains gemmy green crystals – very similar to the gemstone Peridot.  There are also geologic oddities like Finland’s still unexplained “ball granite”.  You can see things from a fossilized wooly mammoth tusk to a breathtaking Finnish gem beryl specimen.

The list of treasures large and small is extensive.  So if you have never visited the Mineral Cabinet museum, I highly recommend that you find time to discover this hidden jewel.

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Keeping an eye on climate change from Lapland

Several weeks ago I travelled up to Lapland with Petteri Taalas, the Director General of the Finnish Meteorological Institute to learn more about the leadership science that Finland and FMI were doing in monitoring and thinking about climate change.   We (Petteri, me, several other Ambassadors and several Finns from the business community) headed up above the Arctic Circle for two days of science.

School started with detailed briefings at the FMI  Arctic Research Centre at Tähelä (in Sodankylä municipality) and later we witnessed the launch of a weather balloon from that location. That night I at last got to witness the spectacle of the Northern Lights which put on a breathtaking show of green glowing solar winds blowing across our upper atmosphere.  And of course we enjoyed an evening sauna following by a dip in Lake Immel, which was still covered with ice. Talk about put things into their proper perspective.

The following day we headed over to the Pallas area for another set of briefings on FMI’s research activities there.  At the top of Sammal Mountain we spent several hours becoming familiar with that climate station.

The FMI weather and climate research station on Sammal Mountain

That research station does not simply collect of the critical data.  It also physically collects air samples which are then transported by my Embassy back to the National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), in my home town of Boulder, Colorado.  The information gleaned from those air samples form an integral part of the body of science on climate change.

Cannisters of Lapland air for delivery to NOAA

One of the reasons that the data collected in Lapland is so valuable is because of the purity of the air in northern Finland.  Science aside, getting my lungs full of that sweet clean air was like a week at a health spa!

Finland and FMI really have much to be proud about with their global leadership in climate science and meteorology.  My deepest thanks to Petteri, his great team at FMI and my fellow travelers for an immensely important and beautiful trip to Lapland.

Petteri and me at the Sammal station

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Getting Around

The last month has been on the road, about half of it outside of Finland.  But I am back home here in Helsinki and I need to catch up on my journal.

I arrived here in Finland late last August – just 8 months ago.  In that time I have had the great fortune to meet so many people and to travel to so many beautiful and fascinating places here in Suomi.  Each location has its own story and this brief entry is not about retelling the details of any visit.  Rather, I thought I would identify where I have already been and ask where else in Finland any of my readers would suggest that I should visit.  (There are already several new places booked into my summer schedule, but all suggestions are warmly welcomed.)

Here is where I have been so far (in no particular order):

Ivalo, Inari, Rovaniemi, Sodankylä, Kittila, Levi, Sammal Mountain, Pallas, Oulu, Kuopio, Luosto, Jyväskylä, Tampere, Pori, Lahti, Turku, Åland Islands, Loviisa, Porvoo, Espoo, Vantaa, Porkkala, Hanko, Loima, Lappeenranta, Imatra and Uusikaupunki.

So where in Finland am I off to next?  You tell me.  Thanks!

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Friday Night Fever

True story:

Several weeks ago I ran into Eppu Salminen at the Sauna.  Now I do not know whether it was because I was getting into the Baltic through the ice (it was -2 C) or whether it was because I then went and rolled around in the snow, but I guess something got his attention (I suppose it could be that I am probably the only Ambassador who has a shaved head and wears one earring),  and he invited me to be his guest on the Radio Nova show, “Friday Night Fever” that he co-hosts with his friend Janne Virtanen.

Eppu Salminen

Janne Virtanen

As the say back in the States, “I have the perfect face for radio” – so I immediately accepted his invitation.  And last Friday night I showed up at the station, and yes, they were actually expecting me, where I spent the next hour “on the air”.  We all had a whole lot of fun – we chatted about everything from beer, hockey, health care, climate change and even spent a few minutes talking about eTown, the nationally broadcast radio show back in the USA that we will be bringing to Helsinki this May to record a show before a live studio audience. (I will be writing more about that soon!)

Me with Eppu and Janne

Janne and Eppu, thanks for a great time … and I hope you still have your jobs next week.

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The Oulu Museum of Art

The vision to see something new combined with the talent to meld that vision into a physical reality is a rare and wonderful thing.  And so it is that at every possible opportunity, Cody and I make art museums a part of our life here in Finland.  Our most recent trip to Oulu included time at the lovely Oulu Museum of Art.

Located on the edge of Ainola Park, a portion of the museum is in the 1921 Birger Federley-designed industrial building that once housed a leather factory and later a coffee and tea company.  In the late 1980’s the City of Oulu carried out the construction of a new building that ties into the old industrial building.  The result is a marvelous combination of space that itself acts as art.

On display right now were several exhibits covering a wide array of mediums and materials.  Glass works by Alma Jantunen and Johannes Rantasalo, oil paintings by Jaako Pakkala, and a show of visual and design arts by Anna-Maija Aarras, Klaus Haapaniemi, Ulla Pohjola, Caroline SLotte and Virpi Vesanen-Laukkanen.  I cannot say that everyone who visits gets a personally guided tour by the museum director, Anna-Riikka Hirvonen, but we did and she made each piece of art even more compelling with “back-stories” about the artists and the various works on display.

Wondering "just how do you get into this dress?"

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Art in Oulu

I keep getting drawn back to Oulu for art, culture and science.  Really.

Last fall I traveled to Oulu with my friend James Balog where he was going to be giving a lecture on climate change at Oulu University.  And following that lecture, I stayed on to be a part of the U.S. Embassy-sponsored Hip-Hop scratch tour that was being presented at Oulu University by the Berkeley College of Music.

Well, I just returned from my latest trip to Oulu, and once again it was focused on science, art and culture.  This trip all started with an invitation to participate with the Oulu Music Festival’s concert entitled, “America, America, America!”

For those who may not be familiar with the Oulu Music Festival, it has just completed its 20th anniversary celebration.  Under the guidance of Executive Director Maija Perola, Artistic Director Niko Kumpuvaara, and Festival Chairman Tiina Niiranen, the Festival brings world class performances to the stage in the sonically superb Oulu Music Center.  For this special concert of music by American composers Niko worked with principal guest conductor Jaakko Kuusisto to create a wonderful program of music by John Adams, George Gershwin, Samuel Barber, John Williams and Aaron Copland. My guess is that right about now you are wondering exactly what classical music skills I might be bringing to the stage.  Other than being a music lover and having studied piano and banjo in my high school years, I frankly have no musical talent, but I figured they just needed someone willing to help lift heavy objects on and off the stage.  Actually, I was given the honor of performing the narration to Copland’s “A Lincoln Portrait.”

But before I go on about my small part in the evening’s concert I need to make note of the many, many truly talented musicians who were a part of the concert. First of course are the members of the Oulu Symphony Orchestra.  All of the music chosen for the concert was challenging both physically and musically – and each piece was performed with aplomb.  Bravo!  The real guest artist for the evening was the fantastically talented jazz pianist, Iiro Rantala.  Iiro performed with the orchestra on both the John Adams and John Williams pieces, but he really got to show off his talent as the pianist in Gershwin’s “Rhapsody in Blue.”  As an American who grew up with classical music in his home, I can assure you that I have heard countless renditions of this great piece, but I can honestly tell you that I have never been as smitten as I was with Iiro’s totally fresh and jubilant interpretation. I just could not keep from swaying to the music and tapping my feet!

Of couse, all of the programming, practices and individual performances ultimately turn on the skills of the conductor to find and hold the musical vision.  I think of it as being the sole lion tamer in a cage with 60 lions.  Jaakko Kuusisto’s musicality and calm was amazing to behold.

Maestro Jaakko Kuusisto

When the time finally came and I marched on stage I promise it was the skills of all these many talented musicians that kept me from being nervous and made this one of the most memorable evenings of my life.

Coming on stage with the Maestro

My most sincere thanks and gratitude to everyone at the Oulu Musical Festival.

Performing "A Lincoln Portrait"

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70th Anniversary of the End of the Winter War

Today is March 13, 2010 and it is the 70th anniversary of the end of the Winter War. It is no wonder that this event is so embedded in the collective social consciousness of Finland.

In the 105 days of its duration 26,662 Finns died defending their country.  And although there still remains a great deal of uncertainty, the official Soviet tally of their dead comes to 126,875.  To put it in even starker terms, this averages out to nearly 1,500 deaths per day.

70 years is a long time ago. The reality is that the vast majority of men and women who were part of or witness to this valiant fight for freedom have themselves slipped past the boundaries of life.  But there are still those few who remember first hand, those for whom the retelling of what to most of us is only history is the vivid recollection of what they experienced.

Cody and I were privileged to spend some time with just such a person, a wonderful woman whose home has been converted into a veterans’ museum.  I would like to say that this had been a planned event, but instead it was simply a great serendipity.

We recently traveled to Imatra and were staying at the wonderful Finnish National Romantic style hotel, Valtionhotelli.  We checked in late in the day and noted the handsome old home across the street with a polite Veteraanin Kotimuseo sign out front. Heidi Day of our Public Affairs section had recommended a stop at the museum, but it unfortunately just did not fit into our schedule. Anne Laanti (another one of the terrific Finns who works for the Embassy’s Public Affairs Section)  made the call and arranged an early visit for the following day,  before the museum’s normal operating hours.

Next morning we all tromped through the snow and the crisp winter air to the museum.  With welcoming candles burning on the steps, the front door opened wide and there stood greeting us one of the most remarkable women I have ever had the good fortune to meet.  Her name is Eila Ikävalko.

Eila Ikävalko

As one would expect, her museum is filled with fascinating objects and memorabilia. But once in a while, if you are really lucky, you get the chance to meet someone who has the ability to make the stuff of history fun and vibrant and fully alive, despite the distance between the present and the past. Eila is one of those people. Every object had a story and a frame of reference.  And every story she told and every explanation she gave was full of life and adventure.  Her museum was not about the pain and suffering of that terrible time, but about the people and the larger world stage upon which these events had played out.  She infused history with excitement, perspective and humor, even dressing the four of us up to play historical parts!

Me, Cody and Anne Laanti as "posed" by Eila Ikävalko

Eila Ikävalko: Lotta, raconteur, historian and more important than that, a simply wonderful person. Our thanks.

Eila Ikävalko and Amb. Bruce Oreck

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